Thursday, June 2, 2022

Celebratory Jewellery: A Cultural Shift Through Modernity That Still Carries Symbolism

Gold Necklace
Image: Unsplash

The internet age has allowed the world to unfold many various cultures and styles. Modernity bestows upon us the means of interpreting culture and the symbolic meaning behind celebratory jewels. For many centuries, metals such as gold and gemstones like diamonds have been the standard material for jewellery making. The basic forms of these ornaments vary between cultures and are highly loved. Occasions like marriage and even coronation ceremonies play a special role in involving precious jewels for the celebration. However, these symbolic adornments have penetrated mainstream jewellery fashion. Here is why.

In Europe, the name alone puts Toi et Moi rings in contention for the most romantic jewel of all time. What gives this ring an amorous edge, is its heritage in France, intimately linking with the love story of Napoleon & Joséphine. The interpretation and significance of this quintessential design relish a popular comeback.

Toi Et Moi
Image: The Jewellery Editor

A classic Toi et Moi ring features two stones or diamonds of a similar size and cut, but in recent years jewellery designers have sought to push boundaries, juxtaposing different materials and motifs, as well as gemstones. As Toi et Moi was widely used as an engagement ring almost a century ago, modernity has caught up with it. While the popularity of the ring’s symbolic design of love remains a choice for many couples, Toi et Moi has also transitioned to be a part of the modern wardrobe.

Moving into the contemporary times, the depiction of the classic Toi et Moi could be altered to feature contrasting diamond cuts like emerald and pear cut. No doubt, this ring holds meaning and may be the new trend among couples, a trend that may even last another century.

As diamonds rings are having a tiny shift of what it symbolises, debutante’s jewellery did not lose their significance. Debutante balls were ceremoniously presented at the British Royal Court during Queen Charlotte’s Ball. It was considered a symbol of upper-class femininity and high society tradition, and served as a way for noble families to debut their marriage-age daughters to compatible bachelors.

To allure the crowd at the party, debutantes would wear haute couture gowns and lavish jewellery while dining and mingling with other equally well-born youths. The jewellery is mostly diamond-studded or stringed pearls, usually embodying the gift from their parents or grandparents. It would be a classic gift that the debutante may wear throughout her life to commemorate this special event.

Debutante Tiara
Image: The Jewellery Editor

However, this glamorous tradition is still going strong, and the jewellery’s adorning style that the debutantes pull off at the parties remains relatively constant.

Apart from western jewellery culture, Chinese wedding jewellery is laced with meaning and soaked in culture, especially the wedding traditions. An example is the “Si Dian Jin”, which translates as “Four Touches of Gold”. It is symbolic and beautiful when worn by the Chinese bride as the set of four consists of a necklace, a bangle or bracelet, a ring and a pair of earrings. The groom’s family traditionally gives the jewellery as part of the bride’s dowry. A great significance of this custom is that the elder on both sides of the family will also pass on heirlooms to express how cherished the bride is. 

Si Dian Jin
Image: Orient Jewellers

Throughout the years, many Southeast Asian countries transitioned to one that goes beyond the ceremony, acknowledging that owning these pieces is for the long term. In this modern era, fashion styles has shifted to a more contemporary wear. The jewellery received, that are heirlooms made of thick, solid gold, which makes it difficult to adorn in this recent time. Most would safekeep these family treasures, wearing other more appropriate jewellery in their daily life. However, recently jewellers have been marketing “Si Dian Jin” to be suitable for everyday styling with its designs adopting a more contemporary approach. The core still being made of pure yellow gold presented in a set of four.

Looking at another part of Asia, Indian culture is formed upon centuries of history and heritage, making it one of the oldest in the world. Traditional Indian jewellery is typically made of gold as it is considered auspicious for major life events such as weddings. In this case, the Indian culture is known for being a symbol of wealth and prosperity. On some occasions, a piece of elevated jewellery would have diamonds embellished in the gold necklace. In modern times, many ladies expand their colour palette by incorporating silver and even platinum. The rising popularity and modernity of vibrant designs that glisten meant that other jewellery styles like the Kundan and Lac are being used in Indian celebratory jewellery.

Indian Wedding Neckpiece
Image: Lin & Jirsa

Following the rich history of distinct and intricate jewellery craft across the African continent, African jewellery companies often have to tackle with preconceived notions of what African jewellery design is, including pioneer stereotypes that see it as primitive. It may not be as lustrous as compared to its western counterpart but on the contrary, each region has its own style. Ghana, with its gold heritage, Kenya’s distinctive Masai neckpieces, South Africa’s Ndebele beading, Mali’s Tuareg adornment and Nigeria’s coral beads. Specifically in Ghana, the coronation of kings and leaders is celebrated with an array of gold wealth that showcases its high prestige.

Gold Earrings
Image: Sika Designs

Gold bracelets, beaded necklaces and rings all have symbolic meaning attached to the styling and motifs used in the making. In the past, these pieces of jewellery were made more outlandish than simple. Modern jewellery designers have come up with a more reserved and toned down piece incorporated with similar motifs of the tribal celebrations to keep up with the times. These regional jewellers now provide a cultural piece of art where many around the world are now more open to certain contemporary tribal styles.

As a consumer’s choice of style often leads the way in how a culture is portrayed, greater appreciation is needed for the beauty and heritage of these celebratory jewellery. Also, it is paramount in ensuring that its symbolic meanings are not misappropriated. Through and through, a modernised world today have pushed the cultural aspects of different traditions around the world to a new level.

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