Wednesday, May 11, 2022

Teachable Moment: Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial

Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, H. Moser & Cie.
Image: H. Moser & Cie.

If the numerous perpetual calendars that riddle the watchmaking industry, a common aesthetic connects them regardless if they are made in Geneva, Neuchâtel, Vallée de Joux, Saxonia or beyond. A certain busyness engulfs the dials yet people celebrate the clutter, seeking out harmony amidst the chaos afforded by a mix of apertures and subdials. Call it a phenomenon if you like but when H. Moser & Cie. first put out the very first Endeavour Perpetual Calendar in 2005, it bewildered many with its alternative interpretation of the perpetual calendar — clean, minimalistic and easy to manipulate.

H. Moser & Cie. CEO Eduoard Meylan once joked that Swiss watch brands make a virtue of putting user manuals and technical specs on the watches themselves. Well, he has delivered a commentary on this practice with this new watch.

The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial follows in the tradition of the manufacture’s salty streak, concocted with classical mise-en-place and spiced up with a dash of modernity. When applied to its watches, classical codes and influences guide H. Moser Cie, only to be elevated by bold — and contextually very funny — aesthetic choices. Its fumé dial, an icon in its own right, is one of the very definitions of the Schaffhausen brand’s savoir-faire that collectors have grown to admire and appreciate. The Funky Blue dial makes a reappearance seven years after the same shade marked the beginning of the H. Moser & Cie. revival in 2015. In literally bigger news, the new Calendar Tutorial is now 42mm, up from the 40.8mm of existing Endeavour Perpetual Calendars.

Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, H. Moser & Cie.
Image: H. Moser & Cie.

The Calendar Tutorial follows the narrative of being the enfant terrible of Swiss haute horology as H. Moser & Cie transforms its normally minimalist dial into a “cheat sheet”. Sketches and notes that showcase the ingenious technical characteristics of the perpetual calendar busy-up the dial. The H. Moser & Cie perpetual calendar is touted as simple enough for a child to operate, and now with the added scribbles, it brings the Calendar Tutorial deep into “idiot-proof territory”. This edition is limited to 20 pieces, with a regular Funky Blue variation released too.

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